Weathering is what turns a clean, toy-like paint job into a battle-worn veteran. It’s the step where you add scratches, rust, dust and grime, and it’s easier to pull off than most new painters expect.
What weathering actually is
Weathering covers any technique that makes armour look used. That means chipping (paint flaking off to reveal bare metal underneath), rust, dirt, dust, soot and verdigris on brass or copper.
Games Workshop’s own tutorial treats it as an intermediate skill, but the basic versions are genuinely beginner-friendly. You don’t need an airbrush or a shelf of specialist paints to start.
The core techniques
Chipping is the classic starting point. You paint a dark brown or silver shape onto an edge or corner, then tidy it up so it reads as a chip rather than a smudge. Sponge chipping does the same thing faster by dabbing paint on with a torn piece of foam.
Rust comes in two flavours: painted rust (layering orange-brown tones) and pigment rust (powder brushed on and fixed in place). Pigments give the most realistic result but need a fixer or varnish or they’ll rub off.
Verdigris works on brass, bronze and copper trim. A turquoise wash or pigment settled into recesses sells the effect, and it pairs well with rust on the same model.
- Sponge chipping: fast, random, great for vehicles and large flat panels
- Brush chipping: slower, more controlled, better for character models
- Pigments: dry powders for dust, rust and soot, applied last
- Streaking grime: enamel or oil washes pulled downward for vertical dirt trails
What you’ll need
A few cheap tools do most of the work. A torn bit of blister foam, a fine brush for detail chips, and a couple of weathering paints or pigments will get you started.
If you want to go further, enamel washes and pigments open up a lot of realism. They behave differently from acrylics and you’ll want white spirit to clean up, so practise on a spare model first.
| Tool | What it’s for |
|---|---|
| Sponge or blister foam | Random chipping on flat armour panels |
| Fine detail brush | Controlled chips on edges and rivets |
| Pigments | Rust, dust and soot |
| Enamel wash | Streaking grime and panel line dirt |
| Matte varnish | Seals pigments and protects the finish |
How it fits your army
Weathering is a stylistic choice as much as a technical one. A pristine Ultramarines force looks parade-ground fresh, while Death Guard, Orks and Astra Militarum armour usually wants heavy rust and grime.
You can apply the same weathering recipe across a whole army to tie different units together, or dial it up on veterans and characters to show they’ve seen more fighting.
Key facts
- Weathering covers chipping, rust, dust, soot and verdigris on painted armour
- Games Workshop classes it as an intermediate technique, but basic chipping is beginner-friendly
- Sponge chipping is the fastest way to add wear to large flat panels
- Pigments give the most realistic rust and dust but need sealing with varnish or fixer
- The same weathering recipe can unify an entire army’s look
FAQ
Do I need an airbrush to weather models?
No. Sponge chipping, brush chipping and pigments all work fine with regular brushes. An airbrush just speeds things up on large vehicles.
Will pigments rub off my models?
They can, yes. Seal them with a matte varnish or a dedicated pigment fixer once you’re happy with the look.
Can I weather models I’ve already varnished?
You can, but the varnish gives a smoother surface and pigments may not grip as well. It’s usually easier to weather first, then varnish.